Inherit - Freedom Fashion

What started as a project at Fashion School 3 or so years ago, has quietly reimerged as a creative outlet. Inherit was the label i created for a branding and marketing project. After finally taking some of my work into Clockwork Emporium, I realised this label could lend itself to the steampunk genre. Bit more suited than redflax methinks! The tag line 'Freedom fashion' goes with the upcycling theme rather nicely too So here is the very first creation for Inherit. One thrifted Portman's jacket and a petticoat. (Got a bit excited and took off the grey buttons before i had taken the initial pic). Anyway, I added some lace and brass buttons, waved the magic upcycling wand and out came Mistress Morganna's steampunk travelling jacket (or something like that). Pretty happy with it. However I have to fight my overactive imagination in this design process. The difficulty for me is to keep it simple. If I am going to sell my creations they need to not take me many long labourious hours, or its just not worth it. So I have the sage advice from a former tutor floating in the recesses of my mind "You need to edit, edit, edit!" Too many ideas and tangents is my design nemisis. Perhaps 'Inherit' will help me 'tame the beast.' We shall see.

BTW...

My outfit for oversew got accepted! Yay!!! So it will be in the show on 23rd May. Here is a wee preview: Happy with my work - I think next time i will try and work within the design brief, instead of designing something for me and making it fit into the brief. Feel confident enough to do this next year!

Pillowslip Frock Upcycled Tutorial - as featured in Hazed Magazine

Thought it was about time I posted the upcycled tutorials i have been writing for my column in the fantastic indie craft mag Hazed. So here is the first one (from the Spring 2013 edition).

Skill Level: Intermediate

Fancy making a frock?? Well then this tutorial is for you! First find two pillowslips that complement each other (look for good quality ones – retro/vintage are great!).

Choose one for the dress and one for the straps. I found mine at the local op-shop for 50 cents each.



Measure your pillowslip to get the required length, and add 3cm for hems. If your dress is long, you may need to unpick the folded envelope fabric on the inside of the pillowslip, to get it out of the way when you cut.

Now you can cut your pillowslip to the length required, allowing for a 1.5cm hem at both the top and bottom of the pillowslip. Carefully cut the folded end of the pillowslip open so you are left with a open ended ‘tube’ of fabric. Neaten the top and bottom edges with a zig-zag stitch. Fold each end over 1.5cm, press with an iron then stitch. Press each hem flat.

Now comes the fun part – shirring the bodice. Firstly you will need to hand wind an empty sewing bobbin with shirring elastic (available at sewing shops in haberdashery). Make sure you do not stretch the shirring elastic onto the bobbin, as this will produce uneven tension when sewing.

Place the bobbin in the machine and proceed to sew normally. I like to have the tension on about 4, but this will depend on your machine, so make sure you do some practice runs. When you start sewing the fabric will gather up, so just hold the fabric taught when you are sewing to make it easier.

Start sewing at a side seam and sew right around the fabric. When you get back to the start make sure you back tack a few times before stopping. Before you snip the thread and shirring elastic, pull about 2cms of shirring elastic out from the bobbin to stop it springing back inside the bobbin. Knot the ends of shirring elastic together and snip excess threads.

Repeat this process about 10 times, with each line about 1cm apart. If you have an older girl, do about 12 lines – younger can have about 8 lines to form the bodice.

Tip: - If you are unsure about shirring, practice on an old pillowslip first. Make lines of shirring, about 1cm apart, until you feel comfortable with how it works.

It’s now time for the straps – so take the other pillowslip and measure down from the folded edge about 8cm, and cut across the pillowslip. This will be the 2 front straps. Now repeat this step to make the back 2 straps.

Now fold your strap in half lengthwise so the right sides (with the pattern on them) are together, and neaten with both edges together, going from the top to the bottom. When you reach the bottom, head around the corner and across to the folded edge, so you have one closed end. Now follow the same path with a straight stitch, about ½ cm in from the edge of the fabric.

To turn the straps out, I use a turning tool (available at most sewing shops), but you can just carefully do it by hand if you have the patience!. Once your strap is turned out, you can iron it flat. Now you can neaten the open end together with a zig zag stitch.

Attaching the straps is simple. I like to place the straps about 8cm in from the side seams. You can pop the dress on your girl to find the best strap placement, as it does vary a bit depending on her age.Once you have attached the first front strap, use it as a guide to get the back strap in the same place, so it is even. Then do the same with the other 2 straps.

To attach, place the strap on with the open end just above the first shirring line. Then stitch a square around the edge of the strap.

This is the basic pillowslip dress finished. There are many embellishments you can add to this dress, such as doilies (I like to dye them for effect), buttons where the straps attach, or fabric yo-yo’s. You can even find a complimenting pillowslip with a frill around it. If you carefully unpick the frill, it can be used around the hem of the dress for added ‘girlie’ appeal. Taking your special girl with you to find pillowslips is great too, and if you go op-shopping it teaches her about reusing materials in a fun way.

Oversew update

Its almost finished! Can't quite believe i actually got to this point - only about 5hrs ish of construction to go, then off in the post and fingers crossed... Here is a peak at the jacket thus far

I have added the final details to the trousers (buckle closure above the zip and leather detail on the pocket to tie it into the vest) - as well as taking the leg in, as i figure the grungey look needs to be reasonably slim fitting. Happy with them, however i think the knee pads are slightly too high? Not sure where exactly they are supposed to be, but when i wear them, they are slightly above my knee. Hoping the outfit reflects leather and lace - the tartan is pretty bold, so not sure if i have reflected the theme as well as i could have. Great learning process though! And actually really enjoyed working with leather, so i am keen to have another go at this sometime this year. :)

oversew update - tartan trews

After 3 late nights the tartan trews (trousers) have taken shape. All that's needed now is hemming - however i am laid up after a wee bit of surgery to remove a dodgy mole on my arm. As i one handed type this, i am hoping that said arm is all better shortly, as i have also got the fifties frock for the Timaru fashion show to finish and post by next tues. Fingers crossed! :) Anyhow - the trousers had to take a creative turn when i realised i didnt have enough length in the skirt to cut the pattern. So they have morphed - padded knees and a join in the back, to make it look like they are meant to be like that - I reckon it adds to the grunge/biker look i am going for though. Nothing like a little upcycling to practice a bit of design innovation. I have used the original skirt yoke for the trouser yoke, and added an inseam pocket for cards and cellphones to fit into. There is an chunky exposed side zipper to add to the grunge look. Really happy with how they turned out! As to the leather vest, the lace has finally arrived, so i have managed to get a bit further along with it. Still a way to go, and certainly pretty tricky! Will update once i am back sewing.

Oversew Fashion Awards entry - progress

I have come to a halt with the leather vest, as i am waiting for some black venise lace to arrive from ebay. This is what it looks like at present: I have placed darts in the bust area to get rid of the gape, and resewn the front to get rid of the stud closures. I am playing around with the old collar, and still trying to work out how to incorporate lace into the design, other than as the sleeves. It looks a bit baggy as i can't pin it properly being leather! So anyway today i tackled the spats - or gators or whatever they are called. After going over my pinterest boards, i finally came up with a method - very simply - wrap fabric around my leg and draw a line down the centre back and centre front, then cut and sew and adjust until a nice shape eventually appears. It seems to be working so far. So tonight i cut out the sample spats pattern in some tartan i have had forever. I am sewing a centre front leg seam and they will lace up with eyelets along the centre back leg seam. I am thinking i will make them from the leather jacket sleeves, and add lace here and there to go with the theme for the show. So here are some pictures of the pattern i came up with, and the cut pieces ready to stitch. And here is one sample spat all done with a touch of lace. Fits quite well, Yay! Oh, and i have finished the celtic cross patch for the back of the vest. My next big challenge will be to come up with a pants design which works for the tartan fabric from the skirt...So thats all for now - and with 11 weeks to finish it i think i am on target!

2015 fashion show fun!

It's 2015. And already I have managed to enter 2 fashion shows. The inagural Timaru Sewing Centre Fashion Show is on the 25th of March, and i have entered the eveningwear section, with a race day type outfit. This is actually a dress i adapted from the craftsy couture dressmaking tutorial i did last year. Only have the hem and exposed zip to go then finished the dress. (Sorry about the lack of photo progress for this project). I am thinking of making a fascinator to match. Next comes the Oversew Fashion Awards, in May 2015, in Carterton. I think this is their third or fourth show, and i am entering the Luxurious Leather and Lace section. Following are some of my original garments i will be upcycling for this challenge. Loving the hideous padded shouldered leather jacket - $3 at the opshop. (Actually i worked out the shoulder pads are brilliant to pad out my mannequin, so susie has gone up a few cup sizes and become more hourglass at the hips!) Thetartan skirt is one i made with my mum when i was about 15. The theme is old to new so i am looking at current trends, and have gone with the gothic/punk trend emerging. Perfect for tartan and leather. At the moment i am working on a vest with an asymmetrical zip with the leather jacket, and some fitted tartan trousers with the tartan skirt...Here is my rather bizzare looking toile (sample) as i was finding it really hard to pin the leather to fit it properly The armhole is proving to be tricky, as it is so big! Maybe inserts will be needed. Incorporating the lace is challenging me too. I have found my old button cross i made for a jacket when i was at Fashion School, and decided to trim that with lace and add it to the back of the vest. Looks pretty good. How to attach it will be the next challenge, as it is quite heavy! I am looking at making short petal style sleeves for the vest out of lace too. So thats the progress so far - will have a pic of the race day dress in my next ramble...