In bed with a Hottie - Upcycled Tutorial featured in Hazed Magazine

Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate (Just a bit more advanced than beginner level)

Just what you need to keep you snuggly on a cold winters night. And to keep you extra toasty why not try your hand at a hot water bottle cover? I have used a thrifted woolen blanket and sheet - however you can come up with your own eco-conscious cover using all sorts of upcycled garments - a woolen jersey, dressing gown or coat. Fabric to applique a design onto your cover can be nearly any type as you will fuse it with iron on fusing, giving it stability and strength. I have used a sheet for this one and neck ties for the hottie cover on the grey cover. Be creative, and feel free to send me pics of your creation, as I love to see what people come up with.

So what you will need to complete this project is:
Your chosen garments/linen/blanket
A hot water bottle for template
A sewing machine
Sewing thread
Sewing pins
Sewing scissors
Taylors Chalk or a light pencil
Ruler or tape measure
An iron and ironing board (or towel to iron on)
Paper or light card for a template and applique design
Sticky tape
Fusable interfacing/violene (make sure it has one side that has glue dots on it)
A button and loop of ribbon or cord for back closure

1. Firstly place your hottie onto paper/card and trace around. Now add 2cm around the entire template except the neck of the hottie. This part needs 3cm on each side to allow for the hottie to fit through the neck hole. This is your front template.

2. Now make a copy of your front template for the back. Measure ⅔ down this template and cut a straight line across. These 2 parts are the back template. You will now need to take the top part of your back template and cellotape 3cm on the bottom edge, so that your top back template ends up overlapping your bottom back template. This will provide the opening to slip the hottie into.

3. Label everything, pin the templates to your blanket and carefully cut around. You will now have 1 front piece and 2 back pieces.

4. Zig-zag stitch around all 3 templates to prevent fraying. You may find the material becomes wavy and slightly stretched. Just press it with your iron and it will return to its original shape.

5. Time to applique. Decide on a shape/symbol etc you like and draw or print this onto paper. Carefully cut around it (good idea to simplify it a bit if there are complicated areas, which is what I did with my NZ map).

9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 to make a small shape to applique onto the bottom back piece to hold the loop on.

10. Now pin the loop at the halfway point on the bottom piece near the top where the opening is.

11. Place your appliqued shape over the loop ends and zig-zag around it, securing the loop ends in place

12. Now place the top back piece over the bottom back piece and line it up until the back pieces are the same size as the front piece. Zig-zag these together along the sides to create the back opening.

13. Now you are ready to join it all together. Place the front piece on top of the back piece with the right sides facing each other.

14. Sew a straight stitch around the pieces 5mm in from the edges right around the pieces, starting at the top neck, and ending up back at the top neck.

15. Press the cover carefully before turning it in the right way. You may need to then press it again once it’s out the right way, to get the curves sitting nicely.

16. Lastly stitch a button near the bottom of the top back piece for the loop to go around to keep the hottie cover closed.

17. Now jump under the covers and snuggle your lovely eco-friendly hottie!

I made the grey one from an upcycled army blanket, to commemorate 100yrs since Gallipoli, and to pay tribute to those in NZ who lost their lives in the war.

With This Ring - Upcycled Tutorial Featured in Hazed Magazine

This sweet little ring bearer’s cushion can be made as a keepsake, by using treasured items from the bride and groom. Perhaps a favourite tie the groom was given by his grandfather, or a vintage button from the bride’s button stash handed down from her granny. Or even clothes from the couple’s wardrobe that are no longer worn. All can be repurposed and easily made into a cushion for wedding rings. You can also look for inspiration in local op shops – for colours or patterns that compliment the wedding. If the wedding party is getting outfits made you could ask for any leftover fabric/embellishments and construct a cushion that will coordinate perfectly. You are only limited by the theme of the wedding and your imagination.

If you are a beginner to the world of sewing, then stick to a simple square or circle cushion, with a button stitched on in the centre, and ribbon to attach the rings. You can use the instructions below, without adding the bunting.


Bunting Cushion
Skill level: heading towards intermediate level
Materials:
Sewing machine and matching threads
Sewing scissors
Fabric
Felt scraps
Ric-rac or narrow bias binding
Sewing needle
Sewing pins
Tailors chalk or a light pencil
Iron and ironing board
Circle template (eg a dinner plate or bowl)
Piece of card (eg cereal box or shoe box weight)

What to do:

Place your template on your fabric and draw 2 circles. Cut them out.

Now draw a triangle template on your card the size you want the bunting flags.

Place the template on the felt scraps, draw around and cut out, until you have enough flags.

Arrange the flags on the top circle into a curve. Make sure the bunting starts and finishes at least 1.5cm away from the edge of the circle, so you do not catch it when you sew the circles together.

Carefully pin the flags down and slowly sew along the top edge, stopping after each one to make sure the next one is in place.

Now sew your bias binding or ric rac over the top of the stitching line (don’t use ribbon as it doesn’t curve well).

Before attaching the top and bottom circles together, you can pin the buntings up and away from the stitching line if you are worried about catching them when you sew the seam.

Place the top and bottom circles together with the right sides facing each other. Sew with a straight stitch around the circle, 1cm from the edge. Remember to leave a 5 – 7cm opening to allow for stuffing.

Carefully clip around the circle every 1cm or so, to ensure you get a nicely curved circle.

Now stitch around the circle again, just inside the first straight stitch you did. This is to reinforce the seam so it doesn’t pull away at the clipped points. You can now trim the seam allowance from 1cm down to 5mm. If you want you can neaten the circle edges together with a zig zag stitch.

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Time to turn the cushion by pulling it through the stuffing hole. Once it’s out the right way give it a gentle press with the iron. If the circle is slightly straight in places you can turn it inside out and re-clip it, till the seam has an even curve.

Now stuff the cushion. I used wool filling from an old cot mattress (I washed it first), but you can also use Dacron (the filling used in pillows). Once you have the fullness you want, close up the opening. Fold the seam allowance under, and use a small hand stitch with needle and thread. Now work the stuffing around to fill out the cushion evenly.

Lastly you can stitch on a ribbon, twine or embroidery thread to attach the rings. Make sure this is securely fastened to the cushion with needle and thread, as you do not want the rings to come off.

Now the page boy is all set with a beautifully upcycled cushion, that compliments the wedding and can become a treasured keepsake of a special day. Here are some more examples that have been made from a mix of vintage linen and fabrics, doilies, upcycled clothing, and new fabric

Pillowslip Frock Upcycled Tutorial - as featured in Hazed Magazine

Thought it was about time I posted the upcycled tutorials i have been writing for my column in the fantastic indie craft mag Hazed. So here is the first one (from the Spring 2013 edition).

Skill Level: Intermediate

Fancy making a frock?? Well then this tutorial is for you! First find two pillowslips that complement each other (look for good quality ones – retro/vintage are great!).

Choose one for the dress and one for the straps. I found mine at the local op-shop for 50 cents each.



Measure your pillowslip to get the required length, and add 3cm for hems. If your dress is long, you may need to unpick the folded envelope fabric on the inside of the pillowslip, to get it out of the way when you cut.

Now you can cut your pillowslip to the length required, allowing for a 1.5cm hem at both the top and bottom of the pillowslip. Carefully cut the folded end of the pillowslip open so you are left with a open ended ‘tube’ of fabric. Neaten the top and bottom edges with a zig-zag stitch. Fold each end over 1.5cm, press with an iron then stitch. Press each hem flat.

Now comes the fun part – shirring the bodice. Firstly you will need to hand wind an empty sewing bobbin with shirring elastic (available at sewing shops in haberdashery). Make sure you do not stretch the shirring elastic onto the bobbin, as this will produce uneven tension when sewing.

Place the bobbin in the machine and proceed to sew normally. I like to have the tension on about 4, but this will depend on your machine, so make sure you do some practice runs. When you start sewing the fabric will gather up, so just hold the fabric taught when you are sewing to make it easier.

Start sewing at a side seam and sew right around the fabric. When you get back to the start make sure you back tack a few times before stopping. Before you snip the thread and shirring elastic, pull about 2cms of shirring elastic out from the bobbin to stop it springing back inside the bobbin. Knot the ends of shirring elastic together and snip excess threads.

Repeat this process about 10 times, with each line about 1cm apart. If you have an older girl, do about 12 lines – younger can have about 8 lines to form the bodice.

Tip: - If you are unsure about shirring, practice on an old pillowslip first. Make lines of shirring, about 1cm apart, until you feel comfortable with how it works.

It’s now time for the straps – so take the other pillowslip and measure down from the folded edge about 8cm, and cut across the pillowslip. This will be the 2 front straps. Now repeat this step to make the back 2 straps.

Now fold your strap in half lengthwise so the right sides (with the pattern on them) are together, and neaten with both edges together, going from the top to the bottom. When you reach the bottom, head around the corner and across to the folded edge, so you have one closed end. Now follow the same path with a straight stitch, about ½ cm in from the edge of the fabric.

To turn the straps out, I use a turning tool (available at most sewing shops), but you can just carefully do it by hand if you have the patience!. Once your strap is turned out, you can iron it flat. Now you can neaten the open end together with a zig zag stitch.

Attaching the straps is simple. I like to place the straps about 8cm in from the side seams. You can pop the dress on your girl to find the best strap placement, as it does vary a bit depending on her age.Once you have attached the first front strap, use it as a guide to get the back strap in the same place, so it is even. Then do the same with the other 2 straps.

To attach, place the strap on with the open end just above the first shirring line. Then stitch a square around the edge of the strap.

This is the basic pillowslip dress finished. There are many embellishments you can add to this dress, such as doilies (I like to dye them for effect), buttons where the straps attach, or fabric yo-yo’s. You can even find a complimenting pillowslip with a frill around it. If you carefully unpick the frill, it can be used around the hem of the dress for added ‘girlie’ appeal. Taking your special girl with you to find pillowslips is great too, and if you go op-shopping it teaches her about reusing materials in a fun way.

from pillowslip to frock

I made a rash decision recently and put my name forward to contribute to a very funky craft magazine - Hazed - created by the wonderful Hazel...After some past knock backs, i have to say i was a bit nervous about it all.  However there was no need......(Hazel is so lovely, and really encouraging!)

So ensued lots of fun finding a cute retro pillowslip from the local purple door opshop...and then a photoshoot - for one of my favourite redflax creations - my fern frocks...Basically a pillowslip dress for little girls.  I have had so much fun creating lots of these - op-shopping for retro and vintage pillowslips matching up buttons from my eclectic and now rather vast button collection, experimenting with dyeing embriodered pillowslips, adding frills on the hem from frilled pillowslips.....you get the idea...Now feels like a great time to share my frock fun with everyone!
Here are some sneak peaks from my photoshoot (coz i can't show all of it just yet!), with my gorgeous friend Dawn.  She has a fabulous eye for design, and happens to have a beautiful restored villa just up the road (which is great, as my little beachy batch is being earthquake repaired, and in rather a state at present!).

sharing a funny moment with my photographer!

Don't you just LOVE the retro iron!
Went perfectly with my retro pillowslip..

 So that is just a wee look at what I got up to - for the full tutorial, keep a look out for the Spring Edition of Hazed e-zine - EXCITING...
And here are some past redflax fern frocks I have had lots of fun creating:

My little G is in this collage - she was only 3 back then!

Loved the colours in this - and the covered buttons

this was the first one I sold - on felt.co.nz

 my cousins girl got this - she still wears  it 4 yrs later!

the orange fabric was an op
shopped waffle weave dressing gown